Rigid Inflatable Boat

RIB Trailer Repair and Maintenance

2007-06-02T07:02:00.000+01:00

I've recently been through an expensive and step learning curve following a wheel bearing failure on the M3, coupled later with a seized drawbar. Total costs for parts and recovery was around £800, plus many hours of blood, sweat, swearing and lost boating hours!

Basically, one wheel bearing failed on the M3 last year. My RAC membership included recovery of the trailer. However, this only covered the trailer if the fault was with the tow vehicle, not the trailer! This taught me to read the small print in more detail.

The rollers in the tapered bearing were ground to dust, the wheel rim too hot to touch and smoking. Total cost for this experience was approximately £300 for recovery and parts (bearing, hub and brakes).

My next experience was when I noticed that the brakes on my tow vehicle juddered slightly. The front discs and pads needed to be replaced at a low mileage due to excessive wear caused by the fact that the brakes on my trailer were not working because the drawbar had seized. I replaced the drawbar, two damping couplers, brakes (again) and brake cables at a cost of £300. The tow vehicle repairs cost £200.

Total cost for all repairs to a new trailer over 18 months is £800!!!!!

The trailer manufacturer was not sympathetic at all! His comment was "what do you expect when you launch the boat in water". The RIB manufacturer helped me obtain parts but refused to contribute to my costs.

My learnings:

I replace my wheel bearings annually
I check my wheel bearing mid-season - How to check wheel bearing
I use waterproof grease (the green Lucas stuff)
I've fitted bearing savers (these had to be turned down to fit my hubs)
I check the temperature of my hubs when arriving at the slipway (if they feel hot, then this is a very strong indication of a problem) and before launch (to ensure they have cooled too avoid drawing air into the hub)
Check and grease my drawbar regularly
I use a slipway that avoids submerging the drawbar, even if this means paying to use a slipway!
Change to a breakdown recovery service that covers trailer faults, not just "recovery of trailer" as they mean two different things. Check the small print in detail, but don't just skim it or rely on what the telephone sales person tells you.
I always used to rinse the trailer with fresh water on my return home. In addition, I know flush the brakes and drawbar. If possible, I'll do this after launch and after recovery before returning home.

My advice - Simple, learn from my costly experiences!

Finally, this year I'm trying out dry boat storage at Southampton Dry Stack. Initial impressions are very positive. This avoids the need to get the trailer wet at all, is very convenient, but you pay for convenience! I'll let you know how it works out.

Updated RIB Buyers Guide

2007-05-06T08:03:00.000+01:00

The popular Rigid Inflatable Boat (RIB) Buyers Guide has been significantly updated and expanded, with a range of new features, including a step by step guide to the construction of a RIB, an expanded checklist, etc. This is probably the most comprehesive and impartial guide to buying a new or used RIB.

You can purchase this buyers guide as a published book.

Visit RIBEX at Cowes 11 to 13 May 2007

2007-05-06T07:55:00.000+01:00

RIBEX is the only boat show dedicated to RIBs. It will take place at Cowes on the Isle of Wight on 11 to 13 May 2007.

For anyone interested in buying a RIB it is an ideal opportunity to sea trial a range of RIBs. Many manufacturers use RIBEX as the platform to launch their new models.

Marine bands to be sold off?

2007-03-24T07:42:00.000Z

Just as the government has abolished the annual licence fee for Marine VHF sets, radar and EPIRBS this year comes a hint that they are considering flogging off the airbands. Marine radio has been one of those things that work well. The slow move to Digital Selective Calling (DSC) has meant only that initial contacts are broadcast digitally, with all subsequent communication being analogue. DSC isn't compulsory, and many boaters are happy with their old non-DSC VHF sets.

Stephen Ladyman indicated in a Commons written answer that:

The Independent Audit of Spectrum Holdings and the subsequent Government response, agreeing with the audit, found that there is scope for more effective use of public sector radio spectrum. The Office for Communications (Ofcom) and the Maritime and Coastguard Agency (MCA) are charged with beginning work to introduce Administered Incentive Pricing (AIP—the ‘price mechanism’) to some elements of maritime radio spectrum use, including radar and communications.

This one will need watching. Perhaps, another email to the RYA I think.

Icom IC-M33 - New Buoyant VHF Marine Transceiver Radio

2007-03-24T07:29:00.000Z

Icom Press Release 29 January 2007

Icom announced the debut of their first marine VHF transceiver that floats in water on 29 January 2007. If you drop the radio into the water, you can easily retrieve it without the radio sinking. This revolutionary new radio has been designed to be easy to use and is supplied as standard with a 980mAh Li-Ion battery pack provides 9 hours of operating time.

Buoyant waterproof VHF Marine Transceiver
If you drop the IC-M33 into water, the radio comes up to the surface so that you can easily retrieve it from out of the water. As the radio has a rugged waterproof body*, it will keep on working even after it has been submerged. *1m depth for 30 minutes, equivalent to IPX7.

Easy to see LCD with large channel indication
The IC-M33 has an easy to see LCD (32x16 mm) with a clear 2-digit channel number indication. The Volume and SQL levels are shown in the display. LCD and key backlighting are standard features, ideal for night time operation.

Easy to use, easy to hold
Weighing only 305g, the stylish IC-M33 has an easy-to-hold-rounded body that fits comfortably in your hand. 9 large buttons on the front panel provide simple straightforward operation.

Quick channel selection with Favourite channel function
Tag your favourite or often used channels then push the “Fav” button, so that you can recall those channels, while ignoring untagged channels.

Li-Ion battery and charger standard
A Lithium-Ion battery pack and battery charger is supplied as standard. The BP-252 Lithium-Ion battery pack provides 9 hours* of operating time. * Typical operation with Tx (Hi): Rx: standby=5:5:90

AquaQuake draining function
The AquaQuake draining function emits a vibrating sound and clears water away from the speaker grill.

Optional speaker-microphone, HM-165
The new optional waterproof speaker-microphone HM-165 will allow the IC-M33 to float when attached. The waterproof screw-type connector is provided to prevent water intrusion.

Other Features

Powerful 5W output power
Dual/Tri-watch functions
4-step battery life indicator
2-step power saver
Auto scan function
70 programmable channels
Instant access to Ch 16 or programmable call channel
Optional battery case for using with alkaline cells (The IC-M33 still floats when this battery case is fitted)

Poole Harbour

2007-03-21T17:34:00.000Z

Forty years ago the second coxswain of Poole lifeboat, John Clark, was splicing lines for a new boatyard on West Quay Road. He was one of the half a dozen staff who built 17ft Sovereigns. The owner, Robert Braithwaite, had grand plans to expand the 40ft yard, but trade in Poole was slow. The harbour could no longer accommodate deep draught ships and the only legacy of the once great Newfoundland cod trade was a handful of merchant houses.

Today, John still splices lines, only now they are up to 50mm thick and the boats are 108ft long. His son, Jon, is the coxswain of Poole lifeboat and the yard manager of the same company - Sunseeker. Sunseeker International now owns most of the frontage of West Quay Road . The superyacht builder employs 1,500 staff and is just one of the many businesses that have helped the rebirth of Poole.

The harbour attracts 12,000 visiting boats a year. It has been dredged to accommodate cross Channel ferries and coastal freighters. Poole is home to the RNLI headquarters, including the new £18 million Lifeboat College, and a Marine Skills Centre which opened in March 2005.

Being the second largest natural harbour in the world, Poole offers endless possibilities for RIB enthusiasts. Whether you are after a lively night on the quay or a quiet night at anchor, you are bound to find the perfect spot.

Approaches

You can identify the entrance to Poole Harbour by the white cliffs of Old Harry (Handfast Point). Beware of the race here on an ebb tide. The Swash Channel takes you to the entrance and is well marked. When possible, RIBs should use the boat channel, which runs alongside, especially when there is shipping in the main channel.

If approaching from the Solent, RIBs can use the East Looe channel, which runs close to the shore, but only when weather and tides are favourable.

The coast

Either side of Poole Harbour entrance are two very different stretches of beach. To the west, Studland Bay is pretty and fringed by sand dunes. Other than the tiny village of Studland it is undeveloped . A footpath leads to The Bankes Arms Inn, which has a beer garden overlooking the bay and is a good place to start a stroll to Old Harry Rocks.

To the east of the harbour entrance, multi million pound properties line Sandbanks beach, becoming high rise apartments all the way to Bournemouth.

The entrance to Poole Harbour

Poole Hharbour is accessible at all states of the tide and is only dangerous in very strong S and SE winds. Watch out for the ebb tide which can run at 3 to 4 knots. The entrance is 300m wide and a chain ferry crosses the narrowest point, its direction indicated by a white flashing light and a black ball hoisted at the front.

There is a 10 knot speed limit throughout the harbour, and a 6 knot limit in the Little Channel and Holes Bay.

The differences between north and south continue inside the harbour. To the south of Brownsea Island are peaceful anchorages, salt marshes and forested islands. While to the north are yacht clubs, marinas, bars and apartments.

Inside the harbour

Inside the harbour cruising in an anticlockwise direction you are likely to encounter:

South Deep

The prettiest anchorages are in the designated quiet area behind the islands. Yachts can anchor anywhere in the South Deep. West of Green Island is very quiet and accessible at most states of the tide. Blood Alley Lake in the lee of the harbour's largest island, Brownsea, is an option for shelter in a northerly. However, in the predominant south westerlies, Goathorn and Cleaval Points are more sheltered.

Pottery Pier

Continuing north is Pottery Pier, a jetty for Brownsea Island. The shingle beach between the pier and old jetty at Maryland is scattered with broken pottery - at one time pottery was a major industry on the island. This is a popular anchorage in the summer, and many yachtsmen pay the £4.20 fee (£10.40 per family) to explore the National Trust owned island.

The 200 acre nature reserve has had a variety of uses over the years but is perhaps best known as the site of the first scout camp, formed by Robert Baden-Powell in 1907, and still in use today.

Keeping a careful key eye on the depth, you can explore the Upper Wych Channel, which is marked by stakes as far as Round Island. Lowest depths are 0.5m and 1.5m.

Shipstal Point is a lovely, quiet anchorage and at MLWN there should be enough water for most RIBs to lie afloat.

Wareham Channel

If you are really seeking solitude, and the tides are right, you can anchor along the Wareham Channel. From Pottery Pier take Willis Cut to the Middle Ship Channel, but only at high water, as this is a notorious place to run aground. Once in the main channel, markers guide you past Poole Yacht Club, Moriconium Quay and Lake Yard to Wareham Channel. Just beyond Russel Quay the channel widens and the area between 78 and 80 buoys is a good place to anchor.

After Gigger's Island the channel becomes the River Frome and winds up to the attractive market town of Wareham, which has plenty of good pubs, shops and restaurants. If you draw more than a metre, only attempt the navigation one hour either side of high water.

Poole Quay

Poole Quay is the hub of the town. The front is lined with pubs, bars, restaurants and shops and in the summer is heaving with tourists. Each building has a distinct character, from the 18th century mill which houses Italian restaurant La Lupa to the smart apartments opposite Poole Quay Boat Haven. The tourist information office is attached to a fantastic free museum which tells the history of Poole.

Poole Quay Boat Haven is a great place to moor because it's so central. To ensure a berth, book ahead on Ch 80. You can also raft up alongside the town quay although it is very exposed in east and south easterly winds and the wash from coasters, which moor at the quay opposite can be uncomfortable. Commercial Quay, opposite, has fuel.

To get beyond Poole Quay you need to pass under the lifting bridge, which opens every two hours in the summer from 0730 to 1830, then 2130 and, on weekends and bank holidays, 2345. The channel runs past Sunseeker and the Lifeboat College into Holes Bay. Visitors can berth at Cobbs Quav marina, which is fully serviced has a clubhouse serving food.

North of Brownsea

The Middle Ship Channel is the most direct route from Poole Quay to the harbour entrance and is used by the ferries and commercial vessels. Stakes mark a small boat channel alongside.

The North Channel , which is only for small craft, branches off the Middle Ship Channel after the west cardinal buoy Diver, and takes you past the entrance to Parkstone Yacht Club and Salterns Marina, both of which have a few visitor berths.

At high water Whitley Lake, to the east of the North Channel, is a mecca for windsurfers and kitesurfers. At low water it's a muddy expanse full of cocklers. The North Channel rejoins the main channel at south cardinal Bell Buoy, and just round the corner is the harbour entrance.

Top five Anchorages:

Studland Bay - perfect for the beach and the Bankes Arms Inn.
South Deep - take care not to anchor over cable chain and oyster beds.
Blood Alley Lake - quiet and in the shelter of Brownsea Island.
Shipstal Point - great wildlife by the salt marshes and mudflats.
Pottery Pier - good shelter in easterlies and to go ashore on Brownsea.

Christchurch

2007-03-10T15:30:00.000Z

Christchurch is one of those gifts to RIBsters. This delightful tidal estuary, which nestles behind Hengistbury Head is of very restricted access. This problem is further compounded by the 'Run', which is a very narrow entrance that is enough to put many off at the first attempt, particularly when you hear tales of the fierce tides within it that can reach 9 knots on a big Spring ebb.

However, once inside Christchurch harbour, RIB enthusiasts will be rewarded with good shelter in mostly unspoiled surroundings, and a remarkable variety of pleasing scenery within a relatively small area, encompassing a sandy beach and dunes, salt marsh, the airy heathland of Warren Hill which forms the backbone of Hengistbury, the woodland fringes within its lee, and the tranquil reed fringed river that leads up to the historic town of Christchurch.

The magnificent Priory church was under construction from 1094 onwards. The Priory has the distinction of being the longest Parish church in England, and boasts the two oldest church bells in the Kingdom, which were cast in 1370.

There has been little industry other than smuggling, which was often carried out quite blatantly in broad daylight, and fishing. There is a small fleet of crabbers based here, and the estuary is well known for its salmon which are caught in nets stretched across the Run in the spring, and by rod and line in the famous Royalty Fishery waters further upstream on the Avon.

Mudeford was for many years closely linked with the aviation business and until 1962 had its own airport, where De Havilland had a factory. During the World War II Airspeed built many Mosquitoes and Horsa troop gliders here and Donald Bailey gave the first demonstration of his famous Bailey Bridge that was assembled in Christchurch.

Yacht and boat building is also something with which the name of Christchurch has long been linked. Elkins built small yachts here until the mid 1970s and their old yard has now vanished beneath the new waterside housing development. Rossiters is a going concern and well known for its traditional looking and much admired 9.7m Curlew class.

Approaches

Christchurch should only be approached by RIBs of suitable draught, and ideally just before HW. On no account should it be attempted in any sort of onshore wind, on the ebb tide or by strangers at night.

The channel is marked during the summer and most of the buoys are removed in winter by the Christchurch Harbour Association. The bouys can after strong onshore winds be missing or out of position and an approach should always be made with this in mind. The sand bar is likely to change with every storm and the local men alone can be trusted for the latest details. Not only the position of the entrance varies, its depth varies also!

The entrance channel shifts frequently but generally tends to run in a roughly east west direction towards the eastern end of Mudeford Quay, a long, low concrete wall fronted with steel pilings and backed by a large car park.

The most daunting part of the approach is the fact that you have to steer very close to this wall before the channel swings sharply to port, and it then continues parallel to the Quay right through the Run. You will know what I mean when you attempt it!

It is about 400m long, the depth averages about 1.5m LAT but keep a good lookout for the local fishing boats and the small ferry which berth and land on the quay, which is not available to visitors. From about 2 hours after LW to the second HW this can often be a very busy spot, particularly at weekends.

The beach to port has a distinctive, solitary black house on its north west corner. The bank extends west from the beach so keep over towards the first starboard hand buoy before turning to port. Here, as you emerge from the Run, the magic of Christchurch unfolds, for you are welcomed by a wide and placid lagoon where the tidal stream quickly loses its grip.

Most of the water, within the harbour, is very shallow and dries up to nearly 1m LAT. The lower parts of the narrow channel almost dry, but as you approach Christchurch town it deepens to between 2m and 3m in places. It is well marked along its starboard side with small conical green buoys and red can buoys to port along all of the lower part.

Once through the Run and past the Black House spit you bear away to port and continue along the line of the shingly beach and its many colourful beach huts towards the distant group of moorings and the prominent ferry landing pontoon. This pontoon is private.

From here the channel turns west past a large group of moorings which should be left on your port hand, then north west for a short distance towards the shingle spit of Blackberry Point which is almost submerged at HW, then back to the west towards the narrower gap between Wick Hams to port and Grimbury Marsh to starboard. This is part of the large Stanpit Marsh Nature Reserve, an SSSI area that lies along the north west corner of the harbour.

The final port hand buoy is about 200m downstream of Grimbury Point where the shingly foreshore ends. From here steer across close to the western shore of Steepbanks, which is topped with bushes beyond which the first of the many upper moorings begin. These mostly lie tight along the sheltering western bank, which is steep and fringed with trees.

Merely follow the line of the moorings and Christchurch Quay will be in sight just a short distance ahead. You cannot miss the waterside building development, which has several mooring pontoons extending from it and a lock gate leading to the inner, private basin. Just to the left is the large quay and modern clubhouse belonging to the Christchurch Sailing Club, which was established in 1874.

Here, at Clay Pool, the two rivers divide. The Stour bears away to port where it can be followed through the many moorings for just over half a mile further to Tuckton Bridge, and the Avon leads off to starboard, where it divides again. The port hand arm leads to the Elkins boatyard. The starboard arm, known as the little Avon, takes you to Rossiter Yachts.

Moorings and anchorages

It is possible to anchor anywhere in the lower harbour, on the outer edge of the buoyed channel as long as you do not obstruct the fairway. Dues for anchoring are collected by the genial Harbour Bailiff, and the charge, irrespective of size, is £3.50 for the first night, and £12.50 thereafter.

The best spot lies on the western side of the channel below Grimbury Point, just below Steep-banks, where there is a pleasant sheltered and reed fringed bight out of the main channel just beyond the last port hand buoy. Here, although overgrown, the notorious 'Smugglers Ditch' can still be seen.

Alternatively, at HW you can often creep into a quiet berth in Lobs Hole, in the lee of Warren Hill, just upstream of the ferry pontoon and inside of the moorings, where shallow draught boats will lie just afloat at Neaps.

At Christchurch the Sailing Club maybe able to help out with a mooring, but it is a sailing club! They have a pontoon which can take up to 9m LOA and visitors' moorings that will take up to 8.5m.

Rossiter Yachts have two deepwater moorings, suitable for boats up to 9m LOA at £11 a night, which are available on application.

Facilities and things to do

Facilities in the lower part of the harbour at Mudeford Quay are limited to the pub and cafe, there are public toilets and a telephone and you can use the bar at the Highcliffe Sailing Club when open.

There are shops in Mudeford, about 10 minutes walk away.

Opposite, on Mudeford Sandbank, among the many beach huts there are several public water taps as well as public toilets. During the season there is The Hut, a cafe and seafood restaurant that sells a few groceries and off license, and ferries that run to Mudeford Quay and Christchurch Quay.

The main attraction of this end of the harbour has to be the sheltering bulk of Warren Hill, which provides some very pleasant and elevated walks with lovely views. It is a strangely romantic place this, a heathery, turfy expanse more akin to moorland scenery than the coast. There is also good swimming from Mudeford Sandbank.

Christchurch is larger than you expect, but often very busy old medieval town with all normal facilities. There are a good range of shops, including a supermarket, banks and Post Office. There are a number of pleasant pubs, many of which feature live folk or jazz music in the evenings, many restaurants, a leisure centre with indoor swimming pool, a museum and art gallery, and even a tricycle museum.

The Priory is obviously the main attraction and well worth a visit. There are popular organ recitals every Thursday lunchtime. The surrounding and peaceful Priory Gardens are extremely attractive, with the Mill stream beside them and the crumbling remains of the keep of Christchurch Castle perched atop its artificial mound. This was built in about 1300, but was already in serious decay by the 1650s.

The Quay is a popular tourist spot, more reminiscent of somewhere on the upper Thames than the south coast, with swans, rowing boats for hire, pleasure trips, a bandstand and the green open space of Quomp's park beside the river. Nearby the Christchurch Sailing Club has a large bar and showers are available when open. There is also a convenient water hose.

Essentials such as diesel, water and chandlery can be obtained from Rossiter Yachts daily except Sundays. You can get alongside their jetty at HW, and they can also slip up to 1.5m draught. Petrol can only be obtained in cans from the nearby garage.

RIB - Diesel Inboard or Petrol Outboard?

2007-02-03T12:21:00.000Z

Deciding which type of power unit for your RIB is an important decision. This guide provides an overview of the age old debate of the two main types: diesel inboard compared with a petrol outboard. It also compares 2 stroke outboards with 4 stroke outboards.

Cost of fuel: Diesel compared with Petrol

The Treasury Minister, John Healey, confirmed on 7 December 2006 that the European Commission has rejected the UK Government's application to renew the UK's derogation on red diesel for private recreational boaters.

The difference in fuel price between duty paid petrol and low duty diesel on marina fuel berths was about 55p per litre. The current difference between diesel and petrol available on marina fuel berths is a few pence. Generally an diesel inboard would consume less fuel per nautical mile, than a petrol outboard. This combined with the significant cost differential meant that it was a fairly simple equation to calculate how many hours at sea you needed to justify the additional expense of a diesel inboard, together with the higher installation costs. The calculation today is not so straight forward.

Longevity of a diesel inboard compared with a petrol outboard

Many years ago the were significant differences between the longevity of petrol outboards compared with diesel inboards. However, today with the advances of modern technology there is little, if anything to choose between the two types. There are many outboards still going strong after a couple of decades of leisure use. The key with all things mechanical is to ensure the engine is serviced in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. In any event, it is a relatively simple option to carry an auxiliary outboard for a RIB. It might not get you home very fast, but it should have sufficient power to get you out of danger.

Installation and Layout

There are important installation and layout considerations. Essentially a diesel inboard installation is heavy than a petrol outboard of equivalent power. However, the diesel inboard option locates this weight lower in the RIB. Whereas the petrol outboard raises the RIBs centre of gravity and moves it aft.

Another key consideration is that the installation of a diesel inboard will take up space inside of the RIB. For some, this is considered an advantage as it provides a useful sun bathing platform. For others, it is simply a waste of valuable space.

Finally, large capacity outboard engines require transoms to be more heavily built to withstand the enormous stresses.

Safety aspects of diesel compared with petrol

If you ask any sailor whether they would prefer a petrol or a diesel inboard
... probably 95% would say diesel. The few that would prefer petrol usually have a single deciding factor that is often unique to their situation. This is because diesel is inherently a much safer form of fuel than petrol.

Availability of fuel

On the south coast heading west, a popular cruising stretch, there is petrol available in Poole Harbour, Weymouth, again in Dartmouth, Plymouth and then nothing until Falmouth.

Trailer towing and weight

The weight of the different engine options is something else to consider. Modern petrol outboards are much lighter than equal power diesel inboards. For towing your RIB around to different launch sites this has an implication over and above the RIB itself, an outboard powered RIB is much easier to tow than one with a 500Kg inboard engine. This may mean the difference between towing with a normal family car, or having to resort to a 4x4.

Residual Value

The residual value of your RIB is also a worthy consideration to influence decision making when it comes to choosing the engine(s) for your RIB. Diesel engines have always enjoyed higher residual prices.

Conclusion

There are many factors to take into account when deciding whether to install a diesel inboard or a petrol outboard, including cost of fuel, cost of the engine, cost of installation, together with practical implications of installation, operating performance, towing weight, etc.

RIB Clothing Guide - How to protect your body

2007-02-01T20:05:00.000Z

Going afloat means that you will expose your body to an environment in which weather conditions and temperatures can rise and fall much more rapidly than they do on land. The reflection of UV light on the water surface can damage your skin and in case you get exposed to cold water, hypothermia can cause death much more quickly than many people would believe.

In summary, open waters are a special environment for which your body requires to be prepared. The first step in these precautions is appropriate clothing and gear to be worn by your body. The variety of modern clothing is enormous due to the use of modern materials and a number of very recent innovations that compete with traditional sailor's clothing.

Buying sailing clothing these days is a bit like buying gear for camping, fishing or any other outdoor hobby that is hopelessly commercialized: as a beginner, you will hardly find a way to prioritize what you really need and what is redundant. Most things are the latter and pure gimmicks. However, a lot of modern accessories sold these days are overpriced and simply not needed by most RIB enthusiasts.

Checklist of sailing clothes

The best thing you can do is to go on a boat with little gear, talk to people you know that have similar interests and needs with respect to sailing and see for yourself what you would like to have and what you don't really need. However, in terms of clothing there are some general guidelines everybody should consider for the sake of health and safety onboard a RIB.

1) Always expect to get wet - some RIBs, especially bigger ones, will protect you very well and it might be that in most cases you will go back on shore without a single drop of water on you. But in terms of water you should always expect the worst. However, this is not as bad as it sounds, you won't have to wear heavy oil jackets for every little cruise. Modern materials such as Goretex allowed the design of light weight, wind and waterproof jackets that even look nice. They should be your outer layer. The outer or waterproof layer is intended to keep the elements out. These usually have very little or no thermal properties, but are entirely water and windproof. In order to work most efficiently, no matter what type of power boating you do, the fabric should be breathable to allow the moist air that has built up inside the garment to escape.

2) Stay warm - this is mostly common sense, but essentially your comfort on the RIB relies heavily on whether or not you feel warm. Fast drying synthetic fabrics are to be favored over cotton, which tends to get unpleasantly cold once it gets wet. Wool is a very popular natural material and very traditional, too, but does not offer the same advantages as synthetic cloth. The middle or insulating layer is designed to be worn over a base layer and under an outer layer. Made from synthetic thermal fibres, it assists the movement of moisture to the outer layer. These fibres do not absorb water; they dry quicky and will keep you warmer.

3) Expect changes in the temperature - The base or wicking layer (that should be worn next to the skin) is designed to move moisture away from your skin, keeping you dry and warm after bursts of activity. Wearing layers rather than one piece of clothing is the key to these changes. Again, most modern clothing is designed in a way that you can dismount up to three layers from single jackets. Keep in mind that several thin layers are favorable over a single thick one.

4) If you go hardcore, wear a dry suit - if getting wet is rather the rule than the exception for you, layers and waterproof jackets are not the way to go. You will need a dry suit.

5) Keep a cool head - about 30 percent of the body's heat loss in a cold environment occurs through your head. Keep it protected by wearing appropriate hats. They will also protect you from UV light that can burn you skin. If you have long hair, it will also help you to tie it back and wrap it in order to keep it from getting blown into your view.

6) Think of the UV - many people don't realize how aggressive the sun can be on open waters where it is partly reflected from the water surface and hits your face from more than one direction. Make sure you wear sunglasses with a good UV filter and use strong sunscreen (factor 20 or higher) on all parts of your body that are exposed. Don't believe that cold wind means that the sun will be too mild to harm you; UV light is not temperature dependent.

7) Protect your hands - they will do the most important work for you. It is important to protect them in the manual labor and keep them warm. There is a variety of specialized sailing gloves available for this purpose. Some are open fingered and advisable if you need your fingers for delicate tasks such as the control of electronic devices.

You can of course combine these gloves with thicker, fleece lined ones if you plan on going out in really cold weather. Keep in mind that you need to balance flexibility and freedom with temperature protection according to you specific needs. It is the same issue as with other parts of your clothing, and the golden rule of the layers applies for gloves as much as it does for jackets or trousers.

8) Protect your feet - appropriate shoes will keep your feet safe and warm and at the same time provide you with the grip that you need on a wet and moving boat. We recommend sailing shoes that have flat soles with slip-protecting properties, and no heel. As with other clothing, modern materials have changed the design of footwear a lot and led to a diversification of the products available. Try different ones and keep an eye on your specific needs.

9) Wear a lifejacket - you might leave the RIB before you want to leave the RIB. In that case you should have your buoyancy handy. Once again you will have a choice between a variety of different products. Generally, personal buoyancy should support your body in open water and help to keep your head up. Lifejackets are most commonly used, since they are designed to keep your face above the water surface even if you lose consciousness. Most of them are based on gas inflation.

Choosing Foul Weather Gear

Every sailor should be prepared to sail under difficult weather conditions such as storms, rain or strong wind. Manufacturers of sailing accessories produce tons of foul weather gear, which makes it hard to keep an overview. This article will provide you with the general guidelines that you should follow when choosing foul weather gear that matches your needs.

You will probably get wet at times. This can be due to water from above (rain), below (heavy waves, spray) or all over (storms). The most straightforward mean to protect you from getting soaked is protective clothing and accessories collectively called "foul weather gear". Fierce competition and a variety of modern materials made it hard to keep an overview on this ever growing market.

It is time to step back and think of the basics. What do you need to consider when you are choosing foul weather gear in accordance with your personal needs? Generally speaking, protective clothing can be categorized according to the degree of protection it offers.

1) Rain Gear: This is the lightest form of protective clothing and keeps what the name promises; it protects you from rain, is comfortable and generally cheap. This is most commonly rain jackets, trousers and hats or hoods.

Any rain gear should do, modern materials have the wonderful feature that jackets made of them normally come in layers that allow you to shed off parts once the sun is back.

2) Coastal Gear: One degree more protective, this targets sort of the medium foulness of weather. This is essentially everything that is too heavy to go as normal rain gear and too light to be proper heavy rain suit. This can include thin wet suits of the kind that surfers commonly use. They come with or without sleeves and can be supplemented with gloves, shoes and even a hood.

3) Offshore Gear: This is the hardcore protection stuff you only need offshore. Meaning, the clothing that makes you properly seaworthy, as in cruises or longer races under very bad weather conditions. It offers the highest degree of protection. Offshore gear is generally heavy and often uncomfortable, but it aims to keep you warm under any circumstances, which might be lifesaving in certain situations.

It is fairly difficult to say where the border between Coastal and Offshore Gear runs - a practical definition might be that "offshore" starts where you should stop buying stuff that was not specifically designed and manufactured for sailors. Gear for offshore applications needs to be of top quality and you should not compromise on this. Don't be shocked by the high price you'll be charged for them; unfortunately, you won't get around that.

Regardless of the degree of protection, most pieces of foul weather gear share that they are composed of similar sets of materials. The basic, inner layer can be fleece or similar materials from artificial fabrics such as nylon; some manufacturers offer whool, which is more classy than functional (not saying that it isn't functional, too). The outer coatings make a difference: You can discriminate between breathable and non-breathable gear.

Non-breathable foul weather gear is normally made from some or several layers of PVC (polyvinyl-cloride, commonly used for coatings); Polyurethane (a rubber polymer, also commonly used for coatings); and neoprene. Neoprene is the most durable, but also most expensive material used for coatings - popular for offshore gear as well as suits for divers and alike, basically wherever you are getting close to the limits.

To optimize the protective properties of non-breathable foul weather gear, the coatings from these materials are composed of different layers, each of which make the final piece of gear more expensive. Actual wetsuits require a layer of moisture between your body and the suit - obviously, they don't have a basic fleece layer.

Breathable foul weather gear is made of all the many fancy and modern materials that allow water vapor to get away from your skin but no water as such to get on to it. This works because of the microporous structure of the fabrics that create a barrier for liquids, but the body heat makes moisture around you evaporate and leave through them. It's a bit difficult to imagine that, but it works and that's in the end all that counts. Goretex is the most famous and common brand of breathable fabrics.

Not every RIB enthusiast needs arctic clothing

However, the foul weather gear industries build insane numbers of different pieces of gear that all are the best according to them. Keep in mind that you need to match your needs with your gear! The density of a fabric is measured by ounces per square yard. Two to four ounces are standard for sailing, but especially offshore gear goes up to seven - which is probably fine for Antarctica. It's not so much the degree of rain and spray you are expecting, but rather a matter of the temperatures under which you are expecting to sail. Wind is an important factor to keep in mind.

High quality foul weather gear should have drains or netting for water to escape from your body. Stitches in the seams should be sealed with melted plastic materials, much as you might know it from backpacks. The same applies for zips.

Check for strong seals (by pulling strongly, you might shock sales assistants) and reinforcements on exposed parts such as elbows, cuffs or collar. Fleece lining in the bags is a comfort much appreciated on cold days on which you forgot your gloves.

Checking the quality of foul weather gear

The tightness of the gear should be adjustable especially at the wrists and other entry points of cold and water. In terms of safety, reflective stripes are useful.

Regardless of the foul weather gear you eventually choose, we hope that this short general guide and introduction to the materials and their functions will help you. In any case, you should spend a lot of time trying different models and bugging sales assistants with questions. Foul weather gear is crucial for enjoying your RIB and without the right equipment, you will potentially put yourself and others at risk.

A final piece of advice: get more than one opinion from different retailers, define a set of features the gear of your choice should have and then compare prices from different sellers online and in the real World. Prioritize the set of properties your jacket / trousers / overall should have, then look for the cheapest model!

Guide to buying foul weather clothing for a RIB

2007-01-28T09:29:00.000Z

Check out the latest free Guide to buying foul weather clothing for a RIB at SolentRIBster.

2007-01-25T17:59:00.000Z

Fast Powerboat Seamanship: The Complete Guide to Boat Handling, Navigation, and Safety
Author: Dag Pike

Hardcover 272 pages (July 1, 2004)
Publisher: McGraw-Hill Education
Language: English
ISBN: 0071422099

Synopsis
This fantastic book is the definitive guide to operating 30- to 100-foot boats at speeds of 25 to more than 100 knots. Fast powerboats outsell sailboats 10 to 1, yet there has been no comprehensive guide available for operating them. Now, from one of the world's leading authorities on fast powerboats, comes the book that answers that need. Author Dag Pike provides plenty of tips, anecdotes, and instructive illustrations as he covers crucial topics such as hull design and construction, engines and propulsion systems, coping with extreme conditions, tides and currents, collision avoidance, communications, and much more. He helps fast-boat owners: adjust to the faster pace of events at high speed; understand the effects of speed on boat handling; negotiate waves safely and efficiently; master high-speed navigation; and, learn fast-boat docking techniques.

From the Back Cover
Operating a powerboat at high speed is both a great thrill and a serious responsibility. As your speed increases, you ride a constantly narrowing line between safety and danger, and the consequences of an accident can be disastrous to you, to your passengers, and to other boaters. It is your responsibility to learn the skills and acquire the knowledge needed to keep your boat firmly under control.

In Fast Powerboat Seamanship , one of the world's leading authorities on high-speed piloting and navigation shows you how to operate any fast boat for maximum thrill at minimum risk. Dag Pike, author of the U.S. Coast Guard's Fast Boat Seamanship Manual , describes the effects of hull design on performance and gives you a better understanding of how your boat is built. He explains how fast boats respond under a variety of conditions, and he walks you through everything you need to know about engines, propulsion systems, trim tabs, and the other controls that give you complete command of your craft.

Pike provides a step-by-step tutorial in the techniques of fast-boat driving and spells out the measures you can take to ensure comfort and safety for yourself and your passengers. He also explores the things you need to know about the sea itself: how waves are generated, how they move, and how to assess and adjust to changing conditions on the water. You'll learn how to adapt to the faster pace of events at 25 to 100 knots; navigate at high speed; and control a high-speed turn. You'll also learn techniques for avoiding collisions, operating in extreme weather, and much more.

The better you understand your boat and how to control it, the greater the pleasure you will get from high-performance boating. Fast Powerboat Seamanship is the source for the specialized knowledge and skills you need to get the most out of any fast boat.

Dag Pike has more than 50 years' experience in power boating and has written 21 books on the subject, including the Fast Boat Seamanship Manual (U.S. Coast Guard, 2002). He is a Fellow of the Royal Institute of Navigation and a member of the Society of Naval Architects and Marine Engineers.

RIB trailer wheel bearing maintenance

2007-01-23T17:41:00.000Z

Wheel Bearing Maintenance - How to repack a trailer wheel bearing

Avoid a big repair bill by performing this simple maintenance

How many trailers have you seen on the side of the road this year with one wheel propped up? If you have RIB trailer and have not checked your wheel bearings lately, this article is for you. You can do this simple task in about an hour and save yourself a big repair bill and the grief of being stranded on a busy road.

Many trailer manufacturers recommend this maintenance every year if your trailer gets normal use. To do this job, you'll need a jack, a pair of axle stands, a large screwdriver, a hammer and needle nose pliers, clean rags, a small pan, about half a litre of paraffin and a spray can of brake cleaner.

First, loosen the lug nuts on one wheel and raise the side of the trailer with a jack. Support the trailer with axle stands and then spin the wheel and listen to the bearings. If the wheel spins freely and quietly, proceed with repacking the bearings. If you hear friction or a growling sound, you most likely have a bad bearing or spindle. If this is the case, take the trailer to a service centre to get the bearings replaced.

1. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel. Be sure that the trailer is supported with axle stands and the opposite wheel is blocked.

2. Pry the dust cap loose with a large screwdriver.

3. Straighten the ends of the cotter pin and pull it out with needle nose pliers.

4. Remove the retaining nut and washer, then pull the hub off the spindle. Be careful the bearings will come out with the hub. Set the bearings on clean newspaper.

5. To remove the rear bearing and seal, tap along the rim of the bearing with a block of wood and a hammer. If the seal is rusted to the back of the hub, spray a little WD-40 on the back to help loosen it. If the seal is damaged, replace it. Clean all the grease from the bearings, races and seal with a brush in a small pan of paraffin. Inspect them for signs of wear and replace them if they look suspect. Once the bearings and parts are clean, spray them with brake cleaner and set them aside to dry. Wipe the spindle and the inside of the hub with a clean rag to remove all the grease, and clean them with brake cleaner as well.

6. Push the grease into the bearings, working from the wide side of the bearing. Keep pushing the grease into the roller until the cage and rollers are filled. Next coat the inside of the hub with grease. Tap the seal back onto the rear of the hub with a block of wood and hammer, and install the hub and bearings back on the spindle.

7. Thread the nut back onto the spindle and turn it clockwise. Spin the hub a few times as you tighten to make sure the bearings are seating properly. Tighten the nut firmly. Now back the nut off about an eighth of a turn until the hole in the spindle aligns with a space in the nut. Push in a new cotter pin and bend the ends of the pin to keep it from working its way out. Tap the dust cap back into place. Coat the lug threads with anti-seize compound, reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts. Do the same for each wheel.

RIBEX 2007

2007-01-21T19:02:00.000Z

RIB Buyers Guide

2007-01-21T08:29:00.002Z

Guide and advice on buying a new or used Rigid Inflatable Boat or RIB

There are hundreds of RIB manufacturers in the world and quite a number are located in and around the Solent. This introduces an element of competition, however, the market place is imperfect. The location of the dealer is important because you don't want to have to travel too far if you experience problems. While any dealer is only a telephone call away, it is almost inevitable that you will need spare parts, repairs or technical advice and friendly customer service. Therefore, a close RIB dealer or manufacturer can be very important.

We have put together this guide with advice on many key points for you to consider when looking for your new or used rigid inflatable boat or RIB to buy. We have also included a Check List that you can print out and take with you when you view a RIB, it has been designed so that it is quick and easy to use to guide you through the RIB buying process.

A RIB can be a large investment and we recommend that you obtain advice from a qualified surveyor if you are buying a used RIB. We would also recommend that you try out as many different makes of RIB as you can before you buy. The annual RIB exhibition at Cowes provides a perfect opportunity to sea trial and compare RIBs side by side.

How will you use your RIB?

Your first main decision is how will you use your RIB, for example is it primarily for leisure, racing, rescue, diving or cruising?

RIBs have advanced significantly from the utilitarian 4x4 of the sea, initially developed for rescue and military use. Today the recreational use of RIBs is well established. A RIB has massive inherent buoyancy, a low centre of gravity, and a high power to weight ratio has made today's RIBs thoroughbreds of the sea. The RIB can be a fast and very safe boat, when properly handled, and is seen in many guises as harbour runabouts, rescue lifeboats, luxury tenders on super yachts, adventure craft on cruise liners, race and cruise boats.

RIBs can be divided into the following four broad categories of usage.

Rescue, Commercial and Military RIBs

Small RIBs are often used by sailing clubs as safety boats and the RNLI use larger RIBs fitted out with twin outboards and self righting gear as lifeboats.

Commercial RIBs are generally used as pilot boats and by the maritime protection agencies. Many commercial RIBs have a wheelhouse.

Military RIBs are used by the marines and other waterborne forces. Some military RIBs can be recognised by the grey or olive green colour of their hull and tubes. You may spot the odd black special services.

Diving RIBs

Divers usually sit on the inflatable tubes, including the Cox on some smaller models, leaving plenty of deck space for diving equipment. A single helm console, jockey seat and bottle rack are normal. The tubes are set close to the waterline and in some cases the hull can be flooded to provide maximum stability at rest.

Sports and Cruising RIBs

Moulded consoles and upholstered seating, stowage lockers, some even have a bathing ladder and shower facility. A Cruising RIB is quite capable of an English Channel crossing with a range up to 120 miles. Often with a minimum of four seats and modern electronics packages. Some of the larger RIBs made by custom manufacturers include cabins as an option.

Racing RIBs

High performance RIBs with deep V hulls and sometimes stepped hulls. Normally they have only two seats. These RIBs are capable of speeds in excess of 100 mph but more typically 50 to 70 mph. Special designs with lightweight but strong construction, perhaps using Kevlar composite material in the build.

Your Personal Criteria for your RIB

If you are buying a new RIB and you have specific requirements that are important to you then ensure that these are included in the contract. For example if you need a minimum speed of 40 knots, then agree this in writing.

Safety First and the Recreational Craft Directive (RCD)

The European Union introduced the Recreational Craft Directive (RCD) in 1996 that sets minimum standards that new boats, including RIBs have to meet. It requires manufactures of recreational RIBs between 2.5m and 24m built in the EU or imported into the EU after 16 June 1998 to categorise their RIBs into the following four categories. These provide you with a good indication of the RIBs capabilities

From a consumer point of view it is a step in the right direction regards to safety, as by law RIB builders have to declare to conform to the criteria. This gives you a yardstick against which to measure the suitability of a new RIB against your own requirements. It can only give you a guide and remember that these are minimum standards, but if you are considering two seemingly similar RIBs each having different RCD categories, it opens up a series of questions to put to manufacturers to lead you towards the RIB that really should fulfil your needs.

However, don't be fooled into a false sense of security by this. Unless your craft has been coded (ie been assessed by the MCA for commercial use) the CE plate is no guarantee that it is 100% safe for that category. Although someone's name will be on the declaration of conformity to state that it is this is of little comfort if someone has been seriously injured or worse.

The RCD does not apply to manufactures of commercial RIBs. Manufactures of commercial RIBs have to comply with many other regulations, in particular SOLAS and Lloyds of London.

It requires manufactures of recreational RIBs between 2.5m and 24m to categorise their RIBs into the following four categories. These provide you with a good indication of the RIBs capabilities.

A - Ocean: Designed for extended voyages where conditions may exceed wind force F8 (Beaufort scale) and significant wave heights of 4m and above, and the vessel largely self-sufficient.

B - Offshore: Designed for offshore voyages where conditions up to and including wind force F8 and significant wave heights up to and including 4m may be experienced.

C - Inshore: Designed for voyages in coastal waters, large bays, estuaries, lakes and rivers where conditions up to and including wind force F6 and significant wave heights up to and including 2m may be experienced.

D - Sheltered Waters: Designed for voyages on small lakes, rivers and canals where conditions up to and including wind force F4 and significant wave heights up to and including 0.5m may be experienced.

RIB builders who meet the RCD will have two identification plates attached on the RIB with the following information:

Hull Identification with:
Manufacturer's code

Country of manufacture

Unique serial number

Year of production

Model

Builder's Plate with:

Manufacturer's name

CE Marking

Boat design category

Manufacturer's maximum recommended load

Number of persons recommended to be carried

A few more legal matters

On 1 July 2002, some new regulations came into force that directly affect pleasure RIB users. These regulations are part of Chapter V of the International Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea (SOLAS V). SOLAS V applies to RIB users of even small privately owned RIBs. If you are involved in a boating accident and it is subsequently shown that you have not applied the following basic principles, you could be prosecuted.

There is no need to register your RIB if you keep and use it in UK waters. However, many RIB owners choose to. For overseas use it must be registered. It must also be registered if it's company owned or subject to a marine mortgage. For more info contact the Register of British Shipping in Cardiff.

RIBs kept on or visiting canals (British Waterways), rivers (Environment Agency) and broads (Broads Authority) must have a licence issued by the relevant authority. RIBs on British Waterways or Environment Agency waterways have to conform to the Boat Safety Scheme.

Once you have decided how you will use your RIB, it is necessary to limit your search to RIBs that are suitable. In particular if you wish to use your RIB for heavy weather offshore passages at night, then you should limit your search to category A or B RIBs.

Your second main decision is to decide your budget. It is important to also budget for additional items, for example a chart plotter, fish finder or depth sounder, compass, trailer, etc.

RIB Insurance

It is essential to insure your RIB for your own piece of mind; often it is also a legal/contractual requirement of many marinas. Click here to view a guide to marine insurance for your RIB.

RIB Sea Trial

A sea trial is essential. If you are buying a new RIB and your prospective RIB has not yet been built, then ensure you sea trial the same make and model, with the same engine. If you are buying a used RIB, then ensure you sea trial the actual RIB that you are considering buying.

Ideally arrange a sea trial in conditions that you are likely to use the RIB in yourself.

In any event make sure that you are comfortable with the owner's knowledge and attitude towards safety. Some years ago I sea trialled a RIB at the Southampton Boat Show and the driver had to call use his mobile to call for assistance because the engine had ran out of petrol!

What to Look For - Key Parts of a RIB

Construction of a GRP RIB hull

The most common material used for the construction of the RIB superstructure is Glass Reinforced Plastic or GRP. A niche sector of the RIB market uses aluminium for the superstructure.

Traditional lay ups are achieved by over lapping chop strand mats (CSM) and stitched or roven wovings at the keel giving a double thickness. This gives weight at the lowest possible point in the hull acting much like a sailing keel that helps keep the boat in an upright position and strengthens the hull.

Most GRP RIBs are built in polyester resin of some type, some omit less styrene into the atmosphere and are also more user friendly to the builder but are more expensive. Isophthalic resins used in the first couple of layers of glass hugely reduce the risk of osmosis (the dreaded fibre glass disease) that is an important point if you wish to moor or berth your RIB.

Buying a new or used RIB

Your third main decision is whether you would prefer to buy new or used. This may be decided by your budget.

Buying a new RIB

RIB Tube Material - Which material is best, Hypalon or PVC?

Most RIBs today are manufactured with Hypalon tubes, however a lot of the smaller sized RIBs aren't and the tubes are manufactured with PVC mainly to keep manufacturers and subsequently retail costs down. There are many advantages and disadvantages for both the buyer and manufacturer of Hypalon and PVC. Indeed this debate has raged for many years. We summarise the key points below from the point of view of the buyer:

• PVC has better UV resistant characteristics. This can be an advantage if you don't have a cover, or have colours that are likely to fad like red or yellow.

• PVC is more difficult to repair, as it requires more than ideal atmospheric conditions.

• Hypalon has better rub wearing characteristics.

• Hypalon is very easy to repair, in fact an emergency patch can be carried out by a competent DIY enthusiast.

When tubes are constructed, the glued faces need to be prepared by scuffing the material to ensure a strong bond. It is impossible to check by looking at a new RIB. Therefore, when you are buying a RIB check the baffles even if it is new. To do this, inflate the chamber to be tested and release the air out of the adjoining chamber and, leave for a few hours and check pressure.

Surplus glue on new ribs will not become apparent until exposed to UV light and once brown is difficult to remove so look closely. Also, check the strips that bond the tube to the hull are stuck without creases or bubbles and that the bow has sufficient bonding material.

Types of Seating

It is a very important factor when choosing a RIB and one that greatly influences you and your crew's safety. Both driver and crew can take quite a pounding in heavy seas when comfort, support and correct seat position are paramount.

There are two principal types of seating used in RIBs. First, the bench seat. This is ideal for leisure use in good weather, however, bench seating is often considered less secure and comfortable when travelling at speed. Second, is the jockey style or pod seat. This is much more secure and comfortable when underway. However, it is easier to get comfortable lying across a bench seat, than it is a series of jockey seats when at rest!

Agreement for the Purchase of a new RIB

Once you have decided which make and model of RIB you wish to purchase you will need to enter into a legally binding purchase agreement. You may be asked to make stage payments as key construction milestones of your RIB are achieved. This is a quite normal, but you do need to be careful. The greatest potential disaster is the RIB builder or dealer becoming insolvent while your RIB is under construction. Even if a deposit has been paid, it is unlikely to give the purchaser any rights over a part built RIB unless precaution has been taken to ensure that this matter is taken into account in the contract.

Typical stage payments:

5% to 10% deposit on signing the agreement

30% to 35% on completion of the hull

40% on engine installation

Balance on completion of acceptance sea trials

There is a standard form of agreement issued by the British Marine Federation and approved by the RYA that, as far as possible, equitably satisfies the reasonable requirements of both RIB builder and RIB purchaser. However it is important that you read the small print very carefully and if in any doubt whatsoever, take professional advice.

Delivery

If you require the boat to be delivered fully operational for a particular date, you may choose to insist that a late delivery clause is added to the contract. You certainly will not be offered this as standard for obvious reasons but it would not be unreasonable to ask for penalty payments of a fixed amount per day in the event of the boat being delivered late without reasonable cause. We have heard of RIBs being delivered more than six months late. In the UK this will mean that you miss a session with your new RIB!

A sea trial is an important aspect of buying a new RIB and you would be well advised to ensure that the contract includes the opportunity to see the RIB in action before you settle the outstanding balance. You need to remember that the final payment is probably the only one that actually includes any profit margin for the builder, dealer or agent, so he will be very keen to get it handed over at the earliest opportunity.

The best bet is to actually visit the workshop and even see your boat being constructed, a reputable company will have no problem with this and if they do you have to ask yourself why.

Buying a used RIB

Hull and Deck

Inspect the hull for cracks, chips and grazing, in particular along the spray rails and chines. Hairline cracks running across the beam of the hull and any longitudinal cracks are the principal elements to look out for. Either of these could indicate substantial damage. Minor grazing, small star cracks (stress) emanating from pressure points and chips in the chines may detract from the boat's appearance, but are usually superficial and require a relatively easy and inexpensive repair job.

Deck and transom damage is rare. However, points to look for are spongy decks caused by fuel or water logging. The problem will require the attention of an expert and a great deal of expense. Check the transom around its base and its bearer's knees. Minor cracks in both the base and at the top of the knees can be common, but generally do not indicate major damage.

Seating and console upholstery condition are visually easy to see, but do check the deck attachment of the console, the seat hinges and the water tightness of any integral storage areas.

Check the location of fuel tanks and battery do you really want them both located in the same deck space? One spark and perhaps a very loud bang! Inspect all fittings, pipes and breathers for signs of damage. Check out accessibility if a damaged fuel tank has to be replaced. This can be quite expensive if the design and construction has not taken this possibility into account.

RIB Tubes

Inspect the buoyancy tubes for major repairs. Check for partially stuck patches as they are a good indicator of an amateur repair job and consequent hidden dangers. Such patches should be attended to as soon as possible.

Check for previous repairs to the tube attachment, usually spotted by glue stains. Pull at the fabric, to check that any gluing has been carried out properly. In particular check the seam at the bow, along each underside of the hull, the transom seams and the joining of the stern tube cones.

A lot of seams are covered by tape that can start to lift or become totally detached. While on some RIBs, the tape is purely a protective measure covering the main seam below (a little glue is all that is needed to rectify the problem) on others it is the main attachment. In the case of the latter, then this can be the beginning of the seams becoming unglued, which entails an expensive repair job.

The RIB should have a minimum of 3 independent air chambers, preferably more. To check the condition of the baffles (the divisions between the air chambers) deflate one tube at a time and inflate the other to a normal working pressure, 1.5 to 3.0 psi. Press your ear against the tube you should be able to hear any leakage of air from one chamber to another.

Engine and Steering

An inspection by a qualified person is the ideal solution; however, if this is not always possible, we do suggest that you carry out the following checks:

Remove the cowl and inspect the engine for general condition, a clean engine often indicates a careful owner. Look for signs of salt corrosion, most importantly around the cylinder head. With the engine running check that the water pump is functioning properly, pumping a sufficient volume of water to cool the engine. Look at the strength of the tell tail jet, which will give you a good indication. Overheating can cause serious damage to the pistons and bearings as well as twisting the cylinder head.

Check for wear in the swivel bracket and engine mounts by attempting to shake the engine, RIBs put huge loads on the engine mountings and suffer from this type of deterioration if the engine has not been properly checked and fittings tightened after every trip.

Check the propeller for damage and look to see if the bottom of the 'skeg' is also damaged, usually indicating that the engine has hit something at sometime. Take the engine out of gear (with ignition switched off!) and rotate the prop slowly by hand, checking to ensure that the propeller shaft is not bent. Again with the ignition switched off or the kill-cord out, put the engine in gear and pull the starter cord or turn the propeller by hand. You should be able to feel a resistance as each piston rises to compress the air in its cylinders.

Loosen the gearbox oil drainage plug and inspect what comes out. The oil should be thick and transparent. If it is not and appears to be thinner and murky, then water contamination may have taken place and consequently damaged the gears or bearings.

Ask to see a service history. You will probably be very lucky to find one, some enthusiasts do all their own servicing and maintenance.

Steering, usually cable or hydraulic outboard engines larger than 75hp. Check the free movement of all cables, it's not uncommon for steering cables to seize. It's recommended changing them anyway on a routine basis. Not expensive but sometimes fiddly. Check condition of all fittings to steering box and engine. If hydraulic steering, check oil level and look for leaks. Move steering and check for 'play'.

Cruising Equipment

Personal choice largely dictates what equipment should be on the RIB expect that not every used RIB will come complete with all the equipment considered to be prudent to take to sea. To give you a general idea we have listed below some items that should be considered as part of the purchase of a used RIB.

Anchor and Line

An anchor of a weight and type adequate to hold the boat with at least 30m (inshore), 50m (offshore) of line with 3m of chain.

Bailers and Bilge Pumps

Bailers or buckets and either manual, automatic or electric bilge pumps, especially on inboard engine installations.

Fire Extinguisher

A fire extinguisher. Inboard engines should have an automatic fire extinguisher system installed in the engine compartment.

Hand or Foot Pump

A hand or foot pump capable of being operated below the gunwale.

Paddles

A minimum of two paddles.

Painter/Mooring Lines

Painter and mooring lines. The painter should be shorter than the length of the boat so as not to foul the propeller should it fall into the water whilst underway.

Towing Points

Cleats, eyes and Samson posts strong enough to tow the boat when waterlogged.

Click here for a more detailed guide to cruising equipment for a RIB.

Trailer

Used trailers are generally in a poor condition and can sometimes seem to be more of a liability than an asset. Ensure it fits the boat, providing sufficient support, and determine the existence and extent of rust, particularly in any box sections.

Brakes often become seized due to their frequent immersion in saltwater, so don't be put off immediately if this is the case. However, do check carefully how easily they release. Inspect the cables, making sure they appear to be good condition. Lastly, check the brakes don't scrape or bind when the trailer is being towed.

Jack up the trailer and check for play in the wheel bearings. Also spin the wheel, listening for noise from the bearings. If the bearings are noisy, then the trailer is not in a good state to tow the boat. Always carry a spare wheel bearing when towing on roads.

Check the drawbar and hitch ensuring that the coupling bolts are tight. Apply the trailer b rake and attempt to manoeuvre the hitch, checking for wear. Try to push the hitch back towards the trailer it should slide slowly with some resistance. It should not slip in easily or seize up.

Check the strap on the winch for deterioration. If there is a winch wire, then you're better off replacing it with a strap, as this is a much safer option. Inspect the winch mechanism for jammed or worn pawls.

Check that there is a light board for the trailer and that all lights are working.

Click here for a more detailed guide on how to maintain a trailer.

RIB Training

The RYA's National Powerboat Scheme is for those who use small, open powerboats for leisure or work, whether for their own sake or in connection with another activity such as sailing or rescue. Click here for more information on RIB training .

For more information on buying a new boat, see the RYA Book of Buying Your First Motor Cruiser available from Amazon.co.uk for around £9.

RYA Book of Buying your first Motor Cruiser, available from bookshops and chandleries at £12.99.

RIB buyer's check list

To help guide you through what can seem an overwhelming maze to buying a new RIB we have developed the following checklist:

Make .................................... Model .....

RCD Category ...

Length ........ Engine ......... Hp ........

Year ................. Asking Price ................

Hull & Deck

Good

Poor

Engine, Propeller & Steering

Good

Poor

Overall condition, in particular any signs of cracks, chips or grazing in the GRP?

What is the overall condition of the engine?

Is the deck solid or does it feel spongy? This is an indication of a delaminating deck, which can be expensive to repair.

Are there signs of corrosion underneath the cover?

Are there any signs of cracking around the transom?

How complete is the service history?

What is the overall condition of the console?

What condition is the propeller in? Is it worn or has it suffered serious impact damage?

What condition are the seats, upholstery and backrests in? Are the seats securely fixed to the deck?

Does the gearbox oil show signs of water ingress (pale creamy colour)?

Does the engine oil (if appropriate) show any signs of water ingress (pale creamy colour)?

How much steering play is there?

Are there any signs of hydraulic oil leaks?

Trailer

What is the overall condition of the trailer, in particular is rust evident?

What condition are the wheel bearings in? These can be checked by jacking up the trailer and checking the wheel for lateral movement and also any grinding nose while rotating.

Tubes

What condition is the winch mechanism in?

What is the overall condition of the tubes?

Brakes

Are there any patches?

How well is the RIB supported?

Have the tubes faded?

Sea Trial

Rigid Inflatable Boat - RIB

2007-01-20T18:19:00.000Z

SolentRIBster.com is a key online resource for those interested in Rigid Inflatable Boats (RIB).

SolentRIBster.com provides RIBsters with essential impartial advice, guidance, hints and tips to help you get the most out of your RIB. It covers all levels of experiences and knowledge. There is a special guide for RIBsters new to RIBs.

Rigid Inflatable Boat

RIB Trailer Repair and Maintenance

Updated RIB Buyers Guide

Visit RIBEX at Cowes 11 to 13 May 2007

Marine bands to be sold off?

Icom IC-M33 - New Buoyant VHF Marine Transceiver Radio

Poole Harbour

Approaches

The coast

The entrance to Poole Harbour

Inside the harbour

South Deep

Pottery Pier

Wareham Channel

Poole Quay

North of Brownsea

Top five Anchorages:

Christchurch

RIB - Diesel Inboard or Petrol Outboard?

Cost of fuel: Diesel compared with Petrol

Longevity of a diesel inboard compared with a petrol outboard

Installation and Layout

Safety aspects of diesel compared with petrol

Availability of fuel

Trailer towing and weight

Residual Value

Conclusion

RIB Clothing Guide - How to protect your body

Checklist of sailing clothes

Choosing Foul Weather Gear

Not every RIB enthusiast needs arctic clothing

Checking the quality of foul weather gear

Guide to buying foul weather clothing for a RIB

Fast Powerboat Seamanship: The Complete Guide to Boat Handling, Navigation, and Safety Author: Dag Pike

RIB trailer wheel bearing maintenance

Wheel Bearing Maintenance - How to repack a trailer wheel bearing

Avoid a big repair bill by performing this simple maintenance

RIBEX 2007

RIB Buyers Guide

Guide and advice on buying a new or used Rigid Inflatable Boat or RIB

How will you use your RIB?

Rescue, Commercial and Military RIBs

Diving RIBs

Sports and Cruising RIBs

Racing RIBs

Your Personal Criteria for your RIB

Safety First and the Recreational Craft Directive (RCD)

A few more legal matters

RIB Insurance

RIB Sea Trial

What to Look For - Key Parts of a RIB

Construction of a GRP RIB hull

Buying a new RIB

RIB Tube Material - Which material is best, Hypalon or PVC?

Types of Seating

Agreement for the Purchase of a new RIB

Delivery

Buying a used RIB

Hull and Deck

RIB Tubes

Engine and Steering

Cruising Equipment

Trailer

RIB Training

RIB buyer's check list

Rigid Inflatable Boat - RIB

Fast Powerboat Seamanship: The Complete Guide to Boat Handling, Navigation, and Safety
Author: Dag Pike