Christchurch is one of those gifts to RIBsters. This delightful tidal estuary, which nestles behind Hengistbury Head is of very restricted access. This problem is further compounded by the 'Run', which is a very narrow entrance that is enough to put many off at the first attempt, particularly when you hear tales of the fierce tides within it that can reach 9 knots on a big Spring ebb.
However, once inside Christchurch harbour, RIB enthusiasts will be rewarded with good shelter in mostly unspoiled surroundings, and a remarkable variety of pleasing scenery within a relatively small area, encompassing a sandy beach and dunes, salt marsh, the airy heathland of Warren Hill which forms the backbone of Hengistbury, the woodland fringes within its lee, and the tranquil reed fringed river that leads up to the historic town of Christchurch.
The magnificent Priory church was under construction from 1094 onwards. The Priory has the distinction of being the longest Parish church in England, and boasts the two oldest church bells in the Kingdom, which were cast in 1370.
There has been little industry other than smuggling, which was often carried out quite blatantly in broad daylight, and fishing. There is a small fleet of crabbers based here, and the estuary is well known for its salmon which are caught in nets stretched across the Run in the spring, and by rod and line in the famous Royalty Fishery waters further upstream on the Avon.
Mudeford was for many years closely linked with the aviation business and until 1962 had its own airport, where De Havilland had a factory. During the World War II Airspeed built many Mosquitoes and Horsa troop gliders here and Donald Bailey gave the first demonstration of his famous Bailey Bridge that was assembled in Christchurch.
Yacht and boat building is also something with which the name of Christchurch has long been linked. Elkins built small yachts here until the mid 1970s and their old yard has now vanished beneath the new waterside housing development. Rossiters is a going concern and well known for its traditional looking and much admired 9.7m Curlew class.
Approaches
Christchurch should only be approached by RIBs of suitable draught, and ideally just before HW. On no account should it be attempted in any sort of onshore wind, on the ebb tide or by strangers at night.
The channel is marked during the summer and most of the buoys are removed in winter by the Christchurch Harbour Association. The bouys can after strong onshore winds be missing or out of position and an approach should always be made with this in mind. The sand bar is likely to change with every storm and the local men alone can be trusted for the latest details. Not only the position of the entrance varies, its depth varies also!
The entrance channel shifts frequently but generally tends to run in a roughly east west direction towards the eastern end of Mudeford Quay, a long, low concrete wall fronted with steel pilings and backed by a large car park.
The most daunting part of the approach is the fact that you have to steer very close to this wall before the channel swings sharply to port, and it then continues parallel to the Quay right through the Run. You will know what I mean when you attempt it!
It is about 400m long, the depth averages about 1.5m LAT but keep a good lookout for the local fishing boats and the small ferry which berth and land on the quay, which is not available to visitors. From about 2 hours after LW to the second HW this can often be a very busy spot, particularly at weekends.
The beach to port has a distinctive, solitary black house on its north west corner. The bank extends west from the beach so keep over towards the first starboard hand buoy before turning to port. Here, as you emerge from the Run, the magic of Christchurch unfolds, for you are welcomed by a wide and placid lagoon where the tidal stream quickly loses its grip.
Most of the water, within the harbour, is very shallow and dries up to nearly 1m LAT. The lower parts of the narrow channel almost dry, but as you approach Christchurch town it deepens to between 2m and 3m in places. It is well marked along its starboard side with small conical green buoys and red can buoys to port along all of the lower part.
Once through the Run and past the Black House spit you bear away to port and continue along the line of the shingly beach and its many colourful beach huts towards the distant group of moorings and the prominent ferry landing pontoon. This pontoon is private.
From here the channel turns west past a large group of moorings which should be left on your port hand, then north west for a short distance towards the shingle spit of Blackberry Point which is almost submerged at HW, then back to the west towards the narrower gap between Wick Hams to port and Grimbury Marsh to starboard. This is part of the large Stanpit Marsh Nature Reserve, an SSSI area that lies along the north west corner of the harbour.
The final port hand buoy is about 200m downstream of Grimbury Point where the shingly foreshore ends. From here steer across close to the western shore of Steepbanks, which is topped with bushes beyond which the first of the many upper moorings begin. These mostly lie tight along the sheltering western bank, which is steep and fringed with trees.
Merely follow the line of the moorings and Christchurch Quay will be in sight just a short distance ahead. You cannot miss the waterside building development, which has several mooring pontoons extending from it and a lock gate leading to the inner, private basin. Just to the left is the large quay and modern clubhouse belonging to the Christchurch Sailing Club, which was established in 1874.
Here, at Clay Pool, the two rivers divide. The Stour bears away to port where it can be followed through the many moorings for just over half a mile further to Tuckton Bridge, and the Avon leads off to starboard, where it divides again. The port hand arm leads to the Elkins boatyard. The starboard arm, known as the little Avon, takes you to Rossiter Yachts.
Moorings and anchorages
It is possible to anchor anywhere in the lower harbour, on the outer edge of the buoyed channel as long as you do not obstruct the fairway. Dues for anchoring are collected by the genial Harbour Bailiff, and the charge, irrespective of size, is £3.50 for the first night, and £12.50 thereafter.
The best spot lies on the western side of the channel below Grimbury Point, just below Steep-banks, where there is a pleasant sheltered and reed fringed bight out of the main channel just beyond the last port hand buoy. Here, although overgrown, the notorious 'Smugglers Ditch' can still be seen.
Alternatively, at HW you can often creep into a quiet berth in Lobs Hole, in the lee of Warren Hill, just upstream of the ferry pontoon and inside of the moorings, where shallow draught boats will lie just afloat at Neaps.
At Christchurch the Sailing Club maybe able to help out with a mooring, but it is a sailing club! They have a pontoon which can take up to 9m LOA and visitors' moorings that will take up to 8.5m.
Rossiter Yachts have two deepwater moorings, suitable for boats up to 9m LOA at £11 a night, which are available on application.
Facilities and things to do
Facilities in the lower part of the harbour at Mudeford Quay are limited to the pub and cafe, there are public toilets and a telephone and you can use the bar at the Highcliffe Sailing Club when open.
There are shops in Mudeford, about 10 minutes walk away.
Opposite, on Mudeford Sandbank, among the many beach huts there are several public water taps as well as public toilets. During the season there is The Hut, a cafe and seafood restaurant that sells a few groceries and off license, and ferries that run to Mudeford Quay and Christchurch Quay.
The main attraction of this end of the harbour has to be the sheltering bulk of Warren Hill, which provides some very pleasant and elevated walks with lovely views. It is a strangely romantic place this, a heathery, turfy expanse more akin to moorland scenery than the coast. There is also good swimming from Mudeford Sandbank.
Christchurch is larger than you expect, but often very busy old medieval town with all normal facilities. There are a good range of shops, including a supermarket, banks and Post Office. There are a number of pleasant pubs, many of which feature live folk or jazz music in the evenings, many restaurants, a leisure centre with indoor swimming pool, a museum and art gallery, and even a tricycle museum.
The Priory is obviously the main attraction and well worth a visit. There are popular organ recitals every Thursday lunchtime. The surrounding and peaceful Priory Gardens are extremely attractive, with the Mill stream beside them and the crumbling remains of the keep of Christchurch Castle perched atop its artificial mound. This was built in about 1300, but was already in serious decay by the 1650s.
The Quay is a popular tourist spot, more reminiscent of somewhere on the upper Thames than the south coast, with swans, rowing boats for hire, pleasure trips, a bandstand and the green open space of Quomp's park beside the river. Nearby the Christchurch Sailing Club has a large bar and showers are available when open. There is also a convenient water hose.
Essentials such as diesel, water and chandlery can be obtained from Rossiter Yachts daily except Sundays. You can get alongside their jetty at HW, and they can also slip up to 1.5m draught. Petrol can only be obtained in cans from the nearby garage.
